Step 1. CHOOSE YOUR MINI-FRIDGE.
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| I decided to purchase the Frigidaire LFPH44M4LB. The price was $179 at Lowes. I did see a compatible fridge at Sears for $149, but it did not have the locking front door. I choose the black model, but the stainless was the same price. YMMV |
Step 2. TAKE OFF THE DOOR
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| This was probably the easiest part of the project. Just lay the fridge on its side and remove the screws that hold the latch. |
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Nice work! I bought this fridge and was concerned about the door panel extending too far into the fridge. Is there any problem shutting the door? I initially thought I might have to remove the panel for two ball locks to fit.
ReplyDeleteThank you. My two ball locks are a tight fit, but they fit.
ReplyDeleteTodd,
ReplyDeleteI didn't see it on your blog post but what did you do with the freezer compartment? Any lines to deal with there?
Jon, the freezer compartment has the refrigerant lines on the top, not in the shelf. All you have to do to is take out two screws on the side and pull out the shelf.
ReplyDeleteTodd, So you fit two ball lock cornies in there AND a 5# CO2 tank?
Yes,
ReplyDeleteEverything fits. The #5 CO2 tank sits on the back shelf.
Have you found any need for any additional cooling in the tower? Or is the thermal conductivity of the copper enough?
ReplyDeleteThanks for the guide. I am about half the way done.
Very nicely done; nicely detailed account -- I really like the hex bolts solution in particular.
ReplyDeleteIf you're still following this thread, a few questions:
1) Any reason you chose a single large copper pipe vs. two smaller ones, as seen in other conversions of this fridge (I presume ease of build, but wondering if there is a cooling theory in there somewhere)?
2) Is the hole the same diameter as the pipe? If not, how did you secure the pipe? If so, how is cold air getting from the "void" to the tower?
3) How deep did you extend the copper pipe into the fridge itself?
Again, excellent work on this and thanks a million for the step-by-step. Cheers!
I think additional cooling would be a great move. I am still considering it; meaning that when the irritation of excess foam exceeds the irritation of not having any beer at all.
ReplyDeleteWith that said, the first glass of brew results in foam that fills 70% the glass. Each glass after that is fine.
Hello EL,
ReplyDelete1. I chose two smaller pipes. The picture in step 13 looks like one, but it is two. My reasoning was that I wanted each plastic tube to have its own copper pipe. The diameter of the copper pipes were a tiny bit larger than the plastic tube. The result was that the fit was tight enough not to require any additional mounting to keep the copper pipes in place.
2. Yes, the hole is the same diameter of the two copper pipes. I did not use anything to mount the copper pipes.
3. The copper pipes extend all the way to the top of the void and as far into the fridge as possible, in this case just above the small shelf in the back.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the great tutorial! I have a few questions:
ReplyDeleteI ordered the tower, and the bolts are very long. Did you have the same situation? How did you cope?
Secondly, how thick was your piece of plywood you used?
Thanks!
Hello Futbolpal,
ReplyDeleteAfter I put lid back on and drilled the four holes for the tower, I used the bike spoke to determine the minimum length required for the bolts. I did not use the bolts that came with the tower. I purchased a new shorter set. The plywood was 3/4".
Good luck with your project.
very helpful post! and the rails you used from Ikea were a very nice touch! what would have been really awesome is if you would have posted a measurement from the back to pilot hole and a side to pilot hole. if you had that it would save those of us with time only to consume more time to do so. :)
ReplyDeleteWow, that is much more involved than I was in my build. But I do love the finished project. That turned out really nice looking!
ReplyDeleteThanks Eric.
ReplyDeleteWhat size are are the copper pipes?
ReplyDeleteThanks - Zack
When the tower arrived, I took the plastic tubing to the hardware store and selected the copper pipe that provided the best fit. I think it was a 1/2".
ReplyDeleteVery nice work. How did you attach the cabinet pulls?
ReplyDeleteMy kegs don't for their both 5 gallon. So annoying.
ReplyDelete